Mississippi River Trail Maps and Route Tips

North 71 to Itasca State Park

Many cyclists have expressed interest in our route and asked us to share our experience.  Detailed daily route maps are outlined on the blog at the end of each day's summary.  The mileages may not be exact as the daily totals referenced on the blog include distances we travelled during side trips to stores, historic sites, viewpoints etc.

Cycle Tour Route Overview - Mississippi River Trail 

Natchez Trace Parkway

Based on the suggestion of another cyclist, we decided to try and navigate the trip without the use of GPS.  We relied on the old school map and compass.  Our intent was to interact with people along the way, and we discovered nothing is a better conversation ice breaker than 2 middle aged Canadian cyclists miles away from home standing on the roadside reviewing a map!  Although, we likely were lost more often than necessary and added numerous miles to our trip we would leave the GPS at home again!  Our fondest memories are of the people who stopped to help us when we were lost and needing help the most!

There are countless resources available on the web to help plan a cycle tour.  We found the following resources invaluable:

Bicycling Guide to the Mississippi River Trail - Bob Robinson

Mississippi River Trail

Adventure Cycling Association - Great Rivers South Map

Bike Louisiana

League of Illinois Bicyclists

State Department Of Transportation county maps

     Illinois Bike Maps by County
     Wisconsin County Bike Maps

Warm Showers - even if you don't plan to stay with a warm showers host, email them and ask for route guidance.  We found they were always happy to help.

Local Knowledge - you can't beat it for the inside scoop on routes, history, camping spots, road closures, eateries ....and colourful characters!

Ste. Genevieve Moduc Ferry Crossing - Flash lights for Service

Tips:

Detailed county maps were a huge help...especially when we were lost.  We had hoped to be able to pick these up at Visitor Centres along the way.  Unfortunately, we often arrived at the Centres during off hours.  We would suggest finding these maps prior to your trip.  These county maps were also valuable during the times we found errors on cue sheets and route maps.

Visitor Centre - Land Between Lakes, Tennessee

Don't discount old school navigation...the sun rises in the east, sets in the west and the compass points north.  During the many twists and turns of the mighty Mississippi River we found ourselves disoriented and had to  remind ourselves to look at the sun!

Challenges:

We discovered that road conditions varied by county.

Signage was often poor and we quickly learned that a change in road condition usually meant we had crossed a county line.   Road names and road numbers also changed by county and often the same road would have more than one name and/or number.  Additionally, often the back country roads weren't signed at all - so it was difficult to verify turns and keeping accurate mileage readings became crucial.

MRT sign and a Bike route sign....pure joy!

We were always thrilled and appreciative to be riding sections that were well signed!

Planning:

Planning is important.  Having said that, we found being flexible, adaptable and willing to change our route based on our own interests and road/weather conditions brought us many of our thrills and most memorable experiences.

River Crossing

Happy Cycling!

Reflections

People
Friends and family encouraged us to write a blog during our trip as a way to keep in touch and share the adventure.  When we first started the blog, we thought it would be about places, the scenery and the history of the area.  Although this was a huge component of our trip we quickly came to realize that our blog or story was really about PEOPLE.

Parks Staff at St. Louis Arch 

This cycle tour has been a wonderful and possibly life changing experience, and the kindness and generosity of those we met has touched us deeply.  These interactions are reminders of how simple acts of kindness and thoughtfulness really do make a difference.  We were struck how often those who had the least to give, gave the most and they did so sincerely and genuinely.

Logistics

We were constantly asked about the logistical details of our trip:

• how many miles?
• what do you eat?
• how many calories a day do you take in and do you burn?
• where do you stay?
• how much weight are you carrying?
• what is your average speed?
• what cadence do you maintain?
• what is your heart rate?
• how did you train?
• how long have you been cycling?
• are you crazy?

Although, many cyclists will track and monitor this type of logistical data and find it important for training and goal setting, our experience taught us that in truth these numbers were often irrelevant.  Mother Nature frequently dictated our distance and speed by throwing head winds, tail winds, hills, cold, heat, humidity or extreme weather at us.  We encountered it all!  As we mentioned in our blog entries, we have always had a healthy respect for the forces of nature and this trip has only deepened that respect.

Can we out race the storm?

Why is the wind always against us?

Weight

How much weight to carry?  Simple - if your bike is too heavy for you to comfortably cycle, you need to ditch something!  It becomes a great lesson in setting priorities and we quickly realized what was important to us - CLEAN DRY SOCKS!  In all seriousness, it was a wonderful experience to be back to basics....2 bowls, 2 sporks, camp stove, tent, sleeping bag, foamies, clothes and an amazing cycling partner.  What else do you need?

New Orleans skyline from across the Mississippi River

Paul Bunyan Trail - Minnesota

Hillman Ferry campsite check-in Land between Lakes, Kentucky

Food
We never seemed to have enough and we often felt hungry....or has we liked to call it HANGRY - that point in time when hunger and anger intersect and your only focus is on refueling.  Because of our choice in routes, choosing to travel back roads, we were often grocery shopping in gas stations.  At times we felt we were on a fad diet of Snickers and Gatorade.  The upside to the hangries - when you do have the opportunity to feast, especially on fresh fruit and veggies, it tastes amazing and you appreciate each and every bite.  We discovered that when we were able to eat well, our cycling strength and moods improved dramatically.

Can't beat oatmeal!

Water
It was an unsettling feeling when we ran out of water and obviously not part of the day's plan.  It shocked us how much water we drank, especially when we were battling the 3 H's -  heat, humidity and hills.  We were always extremely grateful to those who offered to refill our water bottles.  We were constantly reminded of how fortunate we are to live in a country where fresh, cold, clean water is plentiful.

The Economy
Our goal was to travel the back roads, as a way to avoid traffic but more importantly we sought out opportunities to meet local people and learn about their towns and history.  These small towns have really been hit hard by the economic recession and the impact of big box stores within driving distances.   We saw many stores, restaurants, and gas stations for lease, for sale or simply boarded up.  We felt quite sad as we passed these obvious signs of hardship.  However, the majority of people we met in the towns were positive and resilient.  They were often born and raised in the area and were determined to stay and work to bring the town back to life.  We were frequently shocked at the contrast between poverty and wealth that we witnessed along the way, and always touched by the generosity of those who appeared to have little material wealth.  Those who had the least to give always gave the most!

Dogs
Being chased by dogs during a cycle tour is inevitable.  We discovered the likelihood of being chased increases dramatically when going uphill.  We tried everything to deter the dogs, including:

-sprinting (harder to do when going uphill with a fully loaded bike)

-slowing down

-smooth talking

-yelling
-kicking

The bottom line - nothing seemed to work. We learned to keep pedalling and hoped that the dog was fun loving, looking for a friend or would tire out before biting us.  We got to the point that as soon as we heard the first bark, we would pray for a fence, a leash or an owner who could control their pet!

The Blog
As we mentioned previously, we initially started our blog as a way to connect with family and friends.  Over the course of time, the blog has grown in scope.  Many other cyclists, bike enthusiasts, tourists and city tourism specialists have expressed interest in our route and experiences.  We were shocked to learn that we have thousands of page views to date and people from the following countries have been reading our blog:

• Canada
• United States
• Russia
• Germany
• Italy
• United Kingdom
• Australia
• France
• South Korea
• Netherlands
• New Zealand
• Bulgaria
• India
• China
• South Korea
• India
• Spain
• Bulgaria
• Uruguay
• Japan
• Israel
• Ukraine
• Malaysia
• Portugal
• Vietnam
• Sweden
• Brazil
• Taiwan
• Grenada
• Poland
• Indonesia
• Nepal
• Philippines
• United Arab Emirates
• Malta
• Romania
• Mexico
• Mauritius
• Belarus
• Finland
• Nepal
• Belgium
• Uzbekistan
• Ukraine
• Austria
• Panama
• Jordan

As our blog has taken on a life of it's own, we have been amazed and impressed by the willingness of the cycling community to share information and support each other.....whether you are planning a short day trip or a multi-country tour, people are willing to provide route information, tips and often places to stay.  We welcome the chance to support and encourage others to get out and ride!

Cypress Swamp - Natchez Trace

Random Thoughts

Things we missed:

• the kids
• fruit
• veggies
• fresh whole wheat multi-grain bread
• ice
• the Ocean and White Rock Beach
• our kayaks

Things we didn't miss:

• TV
• cell phones
• to do lists
• detailed schedules
• city hustle and noise
• traffic
• bills....although we know they will be waiting for us upon our return
• email
• world news - with the exception of the NHL playoffs
• driving - especially paying for gas

Things that made us smile:

• fresh blacktop
• ice cold water
• flat terrain - or LONG downhills
• tailwinds
• hot showers
• trail markers
• dedicated bike lanes
• good directions and good signage
• standing MOOs (we found that when we passed the cattle ranches, the cows would stand at attention and give us what we came to term a standing MOO)

Things that made us go "hmmmmm":

• Exactly how many flavours of gatorade are there and how many different sizes of gatorade bottles?
• How is that a bug can get between your eyeball and your sunglasses when you are going downhill at 30mph?
• Why is that when you finally summit a hill after climbing for what feels like hours that on your last gasp for air a bumble bee will fly in your mouth?
• Is the Piasa bird really a turkey vulture?
• How fast is a mosey?
• How far is down yonder?
• Is "stay safe" a form of greeting or a warning?
• Does Muddy Waters have a hidden meaning? or is it just muddy water?

....and last but not least......where should we go next?....our next kedge?

The Tennessee Two Step, Bucksnort, Tennessee

Day 24 - Piney campsite, Land Between Lakes to Bucksnort, Tennessee  76.8 miles

With the thoughts of the hills in our heads, we set off wondering what the day would hold.  As we pedalled along we noticed the vegetation changing.  It was becoming more lush.  The trees created a tunnel over the road providing us with   cool shade - a great help as we fought our way up the hills.  

Unfortunately, we missed a key turn and were once again lost in a little town called Tennessee Ridge.  It cost us about 20 miles.  Now 20 miles in a car is a minor inconvenience.  A 20 mile mistake on a bike in the Tennessee hills is devastating.  We had no one to blame but ourselves, so we did the only thing we could do.  We bravely pretended that we had always wanted to visit Tennessee Ridge!  We hung out at a gas station for a while, asked locals for directions, regrouped and got back on our way.  We must confess, we were thinking of the Costa Rican and I am sure that if someone with a pickup truck had offered us a ride to Waverly we would have been in the back of that truck before you could say "Bob's your Uncle!"

We arrived in Waverly much later than planned and stopped for lunch at Samuels on the Square - "where southern hospitality and chivalry indomitably subsist."  The food and service was fantastic...and the restaurant itself was a piece of history.  The floor was the original marble floor....over 100 years old.

Samuels on the Square - Waverly, Tennessee

Refreshed and refueled we cycled out of Waverly looking for potential campsites. The terrain was not as steep, so we were able to get a better rhythm going.  We heard the distant rumbling of thunder and watched fascinated as a wall of torrential rain moved up the road towards us.  You could literally see the sheet of rain approaching.  We hurried to get our rain coats on, but as fast as it had moved in, the rain was gone.  It was like having a quick, intense cold shower - quite refreshing!

Only 4 miles to Loretta Lynn's Ranch

 As our legs tired out, we found ourselves too far from the next campsite and decided to call it a day and retire for the night at the Traveller's Inn.  Hard to believe but we are only 50 miles from Nashville.  With a little luck and some good map reading we should be on the Natchez Trace tomorrow.

Wild flowers line the route

Giggle of the day:

Rob has proclaimed that the Tennesse Two Step is NOT a dance, but what the locals call it when "old farts" like us have to hop off their bikes and two step up the hills.

View Bicycling directions to Only, TN, United States in a larger map

You Sure Look Like You Could Use a Drink of Water - Land Between Lakes, Tennessee

Day 23 - Hillman Ferry, Land Between the Lakes (LBL) to Piney LBL, Tennessee  54.8 miles

We had quite a restless sleep as during the night our campsite was raided by a gang of masked bandits.  Yes - we were victims of a racoon invasion.  We had hung our food before going to bed, yet the little rascals valiantly attempted to get at it all night long.  We were quite nervous as the next 2 or 3 days takes us into a forested area, and we will have little opportunity to buy supplies.  I was concerned when I heard loud snorting beside the tent, but Rob reassured me it was probably just wild hogs and not to worry!  We survived the attack unscathed....just a little sleepy.

Crossing the Tennessee State Line

Morning has become our favourite time to ride, and we find ourselves getting up earlier and earlier to avoid traffic and heat and to really enjoy the sights and sounds of the forest coming to life.  This morning's trip through Land Between Lakes was fantastic.....as the sun rose we cycled in silence listening to the bird's morning chorus and taking in the scent of honeysuckle in the air.

One of our guidebooks describes the Tennessee terrain as a series of exhausting roller coaster hills....enough said.  This morning as we were seeking refuge in the shade during one particularly long hill climb, we noticed a jeep in the distance pull a U turn.  The driver came back, pulled up beside us and said, "You sure look like you could use a drink of water."  He was a man of few words and simply handed us 2 ice cold bottles of fresh spring water and was gone before we had barely said thank you.  AWESOME!

Cold, water delivery - another random act of kindness!

We met Matt and Jennifer at the South end LBL visitor centre.  They were from Nashville and out "letter-boxing."   Their mission was to check on their letter-box site, that has been undiscovered for over 5 years.  Rumour has it one should look on the Devil's Fork trail.  They explained letter-boxing is like geocaching - but low tech and more fun.  We chatted for a while and then Matt asked for our picture.  He was intrigued with our trip and wanted to show his buddies in Nashville a photo of the 2 Canadian cyclists.....

For the past few days we have been hearing tales of an infamous Costa Rican cyclist following the same path we are on but moving south to north.  We laugh as many of the folks we run in to have met him, but we have yet to catch a glimpse.  We were hoping cross paths and get some insights on the route ahead.  Today at the LBL visitor centre, we learned that he found the Tennessee hills too much and hitched a ride from Waverly to LBL in order to avoid them.  Now, we are really feeling nervous!

We neared the end of Land Between Lakes early afternoon and had a tough decision to make.  There was a beautiful campsite beside the lake, cold drinks, swimming beach or a 40 mile trek to the next campsite.  It was hot, 90 plus degrees, humid, the wind had picked up and we were looking at a series of ridges and valleys for the next 40 miles, with no services.  Yes - the same section of terrain that humbled our Costa Rican friend.  Needless to say, it was not a long discussion!  

Piney campground - tent site with a fabulous view of the lake

We look forward to good eats and a good sleep tonight as prepare for tomorrow's assault on the Tennessee Hills.

Giggle of the day:

As if snapping turtles, barking dogs, bounding deer,  wild turkeys, snakes, turkey vultures, raiding racoons, ticks, lizards and poison ivy wasn't enough.....

Bison - Elk and Bison Prairie - Land Between Lakes

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Happy Birthday Rob Land Between the Lakes, Kentucky

Day 22 - Cave in Rock, Illinois to Hillman Ferry campsite, Land Between the Lakes, Kentucky  63.5 miles

Happy Birthday Rob!  We woke up this morning and both felt a little gloomy being so far from the Weiss Gang on Rob's special day.  We found ourselves thinking back to last year's birthday celebration - the 5 of us on a weekend kayak trip to Indian Arm, huddled around the campfire sharing soggy cupcakes during a torrential rainstorm.  What a difference a year makes!

Land Between Lakes

It seems that when we are down and need a boost the most, the "cycle touring gods" send something our way to renew our spirits and give our tired old legs a few extra miles.  Sometimes it is a panoramic view, a kind word, a friendly wave, ice or a skookum campsite.  Today we were given Loni Luis!

We arrived at the "ferry terminal" promptly at 6am ready to cross the Ohio River into Kentucky.  As we were boarding, an older gentleman on a forklift hollered for the ferry to wait....so we did.  Turns out the older gentlemen, Loni, owned and operated the ferry and six others.  In fact, the boat we were on was  named after his granddaughter, Loni Jo.  Mr. Lewis was also the inventor of the ferry's swivel hitch - a slick device that enables the tugboat to be permanently attached to the barge and simply swivel back and forth at each crossing.  Loni shared stories of the area's history, the Trail of Tears, the floods and then took great delight in teasing us about yesterday's hilly ride along Rock Tower Road.  According to Loni, a certain influential citizen, who shall not be named, wanted the road to his land paved and discovered that funding was available for the creation of bike routes......need we say more? 

Loni Jo Ferry crossing the Ohio River

We left the Trans America Trail and are now following the Adventure Cycling Association Great Rivers Trail.  We plan to travel just southwest of Nashville to join the Natchez Trace and start angling our way back to the Mississippi River Trail.  

We were excited to set foot on Kentucky soil and enjoyed the morning passing corn and soya fields, cattle and horses.  We bumped into 3 gentlemen out for their morning walk, and learned they were solving all the world's problems.  I expect they will!

It was an exciting ride....instead of negotiating our way through traffic, we found ourselves dodging wildlife....wild turkeys, turtles and snakes!  Rob even had a close call as a deer came bounding out the ditch beside him - Rob had to slam on the brakes to avoid a collision.

We ended our day in the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation area, 17,000 acres of outdoor recreation opportunities.... truly a perfect place to celebrate Rob's birthday.  (Ian, Adam and Emma were the only thing missing)  We were shocked by the immense size of the campground....we can't tell you exactly how many sites, but let's just say the park has golf cart rules, because folks bring golf carts to travel around the campsite.  We are feeling quite small and insignificant in campsite 31 as we are surrounded by Motorhomes.....that have air conditioners....satellite TV...and no word of a lie, we just watched a gentleman carefully wash his motorbike, drop down a ramp off the back of his motorhome and drive the motorcycle in.  YES - his motorhome has a built in garage.  Connecting to nature and being in the great outdoors seems to have taken on a new meaning!  We chuckled over the contrast between our site and the others as we enjoyed a fabulous gourmet birthday dinner.....chunky soup and jello pudding.  (chocolate of course!)

Hillmen Ferry campsite - Land Between the Lakes

Giggle of the day:

The birthday boy was spoiled rotten:

CLEAN DRY SOCKS!!!  (yes the campsite had laundry facilities)

Hillmen Ferry campsite laundry facilities - Land Between the Lakes

Hand fishing - just for you Captain Adam!

A swim at the lake

 Thanks to all for the birthday wishes and your comments on the blog....it is always great to hear from you.

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