Mississippi River Trail Maps and Route Tips

North 71 to Itasca State Park

Many cyclists have expressed interest in our route and asked us to share our experience.  Detailed daily route maps are outlined on the blog at the end of each day's summary.  The mileages may not be exact as the daily totals referenced on the blog include distances we travelled during side trips to stores, historic sites, viewpoints etc.

Cycle Tour Route Overview - Mississippi River Trail 

Natchez Trace Parkway

Based on the suggestion of another cyclist, we decided to try and navigate the trip without the use of GPS.  We relied on the old school map and compass.  Our intent was to interact with people along the way, and we discovered nothing is a better conversation ice breaker than 2 middle aged Canadian cyclists miles away from home standing on the roadside reviewing a map!  Although, we likely were lost more often than necessary and added numerous miles to our trip we would leave the GPS at home again!  Our fondest memories are of the people who stopped to help us when we were lost and needing help the most!

There are countless resources available on the web to help plan a cycle tour.  We found the following resources invaluable:

Bicycling Guide to the Mississippi River Trail - Bob Robinson

Mississippi River Trail

Adventure Cycling Association - Great Rivers South Map

Bike Louisiana

League of Illinois Bicyclists

State Department Of Transportation county maps

     Illinois Bike Maps by County
     Wisconsin County Bike Maps

Warm Showers - even if you don't plan to stay with a warm showers host, email them and ask for route guidance.  We found they were always happy to help.

Local Knowledge - you can't beat it for the inside scoop on routes, history, camping spots, road closures, eateries ....and colourful characters!

Ste. Genevieve Moduc Ferry Crossing - Flash lights for Service

Tips:

Detailed county maps were a huge help...especially when we were lost.  We had hoped to be able to pick these up at Visitor Centres along the way.  Unfortunately, we often arrived at the Centres during off hours.  We would suggest finding these maps prior to your trip.  These county maps were also valuable during the times we found errors on cue sheets and route maps.

Visitor Centre - Land Between Lakes, Tennessee

Don't discount old school navigation...the sun rises in the east, sets in the west and the compass points north.  During the many twists and turns of the mighty Mississippi River we found ourselves disoriented and had to  remind ourselves to look at the sun!

Challenges:

We discovered that road conditions varied by county.

Signage was often poor and we quickly learned that a change in road condition usually meant we had crossed a county line.   Road names and road numbers also changed by county and often the same road would have more than one name and/or number.  Additionally, often the back country roads weren't signed at all - so it was difficult to verify turns and keeping accurate mileage readings became crucial.

MRT sign and a Bike route sign....pure joy!

We were always thrilled and appreciative to be riding sections that were well signed!

Planning:

Planning is important.  Having said that, we found being flexible, adaptable and willing to change our route based on our own interests and road/weather conditions brought us many of our thrills and most memorable experiences.

River Crossing

Happy Cycling!

You are in Redneck country you know - Natchez, Mississippi

Day 30 - Clinton, Mississippi to Natchez, Mississippi 97.5 miles

Today was our last day on the Natchez Trace.  What an amazing stretch of riding it has been!  The history, the wildlife viewing, the camping, the scenery and of course the endless miles of bike friendly roads made this stretch one of the highlights of the trip.  

The last 5 miles on the Natchez Trace

We were at a rest stop when once again we were approached by strangers bearing gifts!  A group of four ladies from Arkansas were travelling the Trace and shared cold, clear bottled water with us.  They had just been to Baton Rouge and were really excited about a swamp tour they had taken.....more gators!

Rejoining the Mississippi River Trail on the Natchez Trace

Later in the day, we had to stop when we rounded the bend and came across fields of corn.  The  corn looked ready to harvest.  We thought back to our visit to Illinois and how small the corn was at that time.  Incredible the difference a few days and a few miles makes.....

Corn as high as an elephant's eye!

We visited Mount Locust, a restored plantation house and historic stand.  Mount Locust is the only remaining inn on the Trace.  Again we were struck by the hardships the early travellers must have faced when they trudged along the Trace.

Spanish Moss

As we approached Natchez an older gentleman on a racing bike was riding south to north.  As we passed he gave us a friendly wave.  Minutes later he turned and road back to meet us.  He stopped, asked if we had water, inner tubes, gave us advice on places to see in Natchez and then to quote, "remember you are in redneck country....friendly rednecks, but be careful on the roads!"  He gave us a quick wink, wished us luck and was back on his way.  He was quite a character...long grey hair tied in a pony tail, long grey beard, thick southern accent, black and pink bike shorts and thin as a rail!   

Giggle of the day:

We hit the 2,000 miles and of course decided to mark the occasion by taking a picture, using our fingers to symbolize 2,000.  We then had a very LONG discussion (debate) about which way the photo would show the "2".  We simply could not figure it out.  We blamed the heat, humidity and physical exhaustion on our inability to solve this simple problem...and then came up with a creative solution.  We took the picture both ways.

Celebrating the 2,000 mile mark!

View Bicycling directions to Natchez, MS, USA in a larger map

Happy Birthday Rob Land Between the Lakes, Kentucky

Day 22 - Cave in Rock, Illinois to Hillman Ferry campsite, Land Between the Lakes, Kentucky  63.5 miles

Happy Birthday Rob!  We woke up this morning and both felt a little gloomy being so far from the Weiss Gang on Rob's special day.  We found ourselves thinking back to last year's birthday celebration - the 5 of us on a weekend kayak trip to Indian Arm, huddled around the campfire sharing soggy cupcakes during a torrential rainstorm.  What a difference a year makes!

Land Between Lakes

It seems that when we are down and need a boost the most, the "cycle touring gods" send something our way to renew our spirits and give our tired old legs a few extra miles.  Sometimes it is a panoramic view, a kind word, a friendly wave, ice or a skookum campsite.  Today we were given Loni Luis!

We arrived at the "ferry terminal" promptly at 6am ready to cross the Ohio River into Kentucky.  As we were boarding, an older gentleman on a forklift hollered for the ferry to wait....so we did.  Turns out the older gentlemen, Loni, owned and operated the ferry and six others.  In fact, the boat we were on was  named after his granddaughter, Loni Jo.  Mr. Lewis was also the inventor of the ferry's swivel hitch - a slick device that enables the tugboat to be permanently attached to the barge and simply swivel back and forth at each crossing.  Loni shared stories of the area's history, the Trail of Tears, the floods and then took great delight in teasing us about yesterday's hilly ride along Rock Tower Road.  According to Loni, a certain influential citizen, who shall not be named, wanted the road to his land paved and discovered that funding was available for the creation of bike routes......need we say more? 

Loni Jo Ferry crossing the Ohio River

We left the Trans America Trail and are now following the Adventure Cycling Association Great Rivers Trail.  We plan to travel just southwest of Nashville to join the Natchez Trace and start angling our way back to the Mississippi River Trail.  

We were excited to set foot on Kentucky soil and enjoyed the morning passing corn and soya fields, cattle and horses.  We bumped into 3 gentlemen out for their morning walk, and learned they were solving all the world's problems.  I expect they will!

It was an exciting ride....instead of negotiating our way through traffic, we found ourselves dodging wildlife....wild turkeys, turtles and snakes!  Rob even had a close call as a deer came bounding out the ditch beside him - Rob had to slam on the brakes to avoid a collision.

We ended our day in the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation area, 17,000 acres of outdoor recreation opportunities.... truly a perfect place to celebrate Rob's birthday.  (Ian, Adam and Emma were the only thing missing)  We were shocked by the immense size of the campground....we can't tell you exactly how many sites, but let's just say the park has golf cart rules, because folks bring golf carts to travel around the campsite.  We are feeling quite small and insignificant in campsite 31 as we are surrounded by Motorhomes.....that have air conditioners....satellite TV...and no word of a lie, we just watched a gentleman carefully wash his motorbike, drop down a ramp off the back of his motorhome and drive the motorcycle in.  YES - his motorhome has a built in garage.  Connecting to nature and being in the great outdoors seems to have taken on a new meaning!  We chuckled over the contrast between our site and the others as we enjoyed a fabulous gourmet birthday dinner.....chunky soup and jello pudding.  (chocolate of course!)

Hillmen Ferry campsite - Land Between the Lakes

Giggle of the day:

The birthday boy was spoiled rotten:

CLEAN DRY SOCKS!!!  (yes the campsite had laundry facilities)

Hillmen Ferry campsite laundry facilities - Land Between the Lakes

Hand fishing - just for you Captain Adam!

A swim at the lake

 Thanks to all for the birthday wishes and your comments on the blog....it is always great to hear from you.

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Treasure Hunting - Cave in Rock, Illinois

Day 21 - Goreville, Illinois to Cave in the Rock State Park, Cave in the Rock, Illinois  66.5 miles

The route just seems to be getting better and better!  This morning we transitioned to horse country....fabulous equestrian farms across the country side.  The horses always seem curious when we pass and come to the fences to greet us.

We did a short side trip to Tunnel Hill State Trail and seriously debated changing our route again.  This trail looked amazing...yet, another rails to trails initiative - 45 miles of converted railway line, and you know what that means...NO HILLS!  We explored the trail for a few miles and found ourselves in a 534 foot tunnel.  (originally the tunnel had been 800 feet in length, but was shortened after a cave in.)  We cycled into the tunnel.  What an unsettling feeling....as you approached the half way point, it was almost pitch black.  We were forced to get off our bikes and walk because we could not see our feet.

Entering the railway tunnel - Tunnel Hill State Trail

We reluctantly left Tunnel Hill and made our way to Millstone Bluff, the site of an undisturbed prehistoric Mississipian village.  Artifacts dating back to 900 AD have been discovered here.  Our musings about artifacts were quickly brought to an end as Rob was faced with another flat tire.  (I blame the mashing)

Another flat - near Millstone Bluff

We continued to battle wind, hills and heat during the afternoon.  During our lunch break we visited a gas station and filled our camel packs with ice....welcome relief!  Thanks to team Weiss for the camel packs - they are awesome!  Our route took us through parts of the Shawnee National Forest and the Trail of Tears State Forest.  The history of Trail of Tears is quite sobering, as we learned that in 1838 the Cherokee people were forced from their homes and marched over 1,000 miles.  At least 4000 Cherokee died that winter.

Bicyclists Rest Stop - Trans America Trail

After passing an amazing rest stop outside of Elizabethtown, we finished our day looking for treasure at Cave in the Rock.  From 1790 - 1830 river pirates hid their stash in the caves.  Rumour has it that all of the treasure has not been found.........

Treasure hunting - Cave in Rock, Illinois

As we go to bed we will say goodbye to Illinois.  They say Illinois is one of the longest states at over 500 miles - WE AGREE.  We have had a terrific time in this great state....thanks to all who offered help and to those who gave us friendly honks and waves.

Giggle of the day:

Is Jane following the right road?

View Bicycling directions to Cave-In-Rock State Park, Cave-In-Rock, IL, United States in a larger map

Hop On Hop Off Tour of South Eastern Illinois

Day 20 - Chester, Illinois to Ferne Clyffe State Park, Goreville, Illinois 76.8 miles

Today we said goodbye to the Mississippi River as we left Chester to start our journey east on the Trans America Trail.  As much as we have been enjoying the Prairies we were really excited to see that today's route would take us into rolling countryside and forest.  It was wonderful to be back in the trees. The country roads were lined by oak and maples...quite a stunning ride.

Of course, there is always a price and today we paid.  The ride was hilly for almost the whole day.  I have to say that I admire Rob's incredible patience.  To my way of thinking the hills have become a metaphor for the obstacles that sometimes come your way.  At work, when faced with a challenge Rob always attacks it with tenacity and bulldog determination.  The same holds true for the hills.  He puts his head down, gets to work and just powers up.  (still mashing of course!)  I, on the other hand, take a quick look at the looming hill, gear down immediately and start begging for mercy.  Rob is always waiting patiently at the top for me.  He instinctively knows when to say good job...and when to avoid eye contact and pretend to review the maps.  I suppose we have been married long enough that you might call this a learned skill.  However, today the hills even humbled Rob.....by mid afternoon we had both lost our legs and had to hop off the bikes about half way up the hills and walk.  We hopped on and hopped off for the afternoon and into the early evening.

All roads lead to Shiloh

We took a quick side trip through the Southern Illinois Campus in Carbondale and as usual were amazed by the size and grandeur of US colleges.   We were treated to fabulous lake views of Grassy Lake....a busy boating, camping and fishing hole.

Southern Illinois University Carbondale

We  arrived in Goreville exactly 22 minutes after the grocery store closed, so were forced to visit the gas station to pick up our dinner.....and it tasted great!  The campsite host met us on our arrival and gave us spot up on the ridge close to the showers.  Maybe out of the kindness of his heart, maybe because we smelled THAT BAD!

Giggle of the day:

We rounded the bend during one of our free fall descents to see traffic gridlocked!  Well, there were 2 cars stopped on the road, and they were the first vehicles we had seen in hours so it seemed like gridlock.  We pulled up slowly unsure of the reason for the traffic snarl up and were startled to see a HUGE snapping turtle sitting in the middle of the road.  The drivers were trying to coax him to move, but the turtle stood his ground!  The men warned Rob to stay back as the turtle could move very quickly, covering off five feet in no time and snap your arm off.  WHO KNEW?

Turtle stops traffic in Illinois

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Popeye the Sailor Man - Chester, Illinois

Day 19 - Festus, Missouri to Chester, Illinois 61.4 miles

The morning ride took us to Ste. Genevieve in search of the Moduc ferry.  The MRT route was really well marked - we were thrilled to see trail signs on a regular basis, because they really have been few and far between until this point.  Unfortunately, the road was not the best for cycling as the shoulder was very narrow, with a drop on one side and rumble strips on the other.  It was quite a white knuckle trip as we twisted and turned, climbed and dropped our way into town.

MRT and Great River Road signage

Ste. Genevieve is the oldest European settlement west of the Mississippi and you can see a strong French Canadian influence everywhere.  We took our time walking the town and soaking it all in.  The town has done a wonderful job preserving and sharing it's colourful history.  We enjoyed lunch at an outdoor cafe and met a great couple who were on a motorcycle weekend trip.  They gave us some terrific camping and route tips.

Historic Sainte Genevieve - Mississippi River Trail

We were a bit shocked to learn that the flood gates protecting Ste. Genevieve had only been opened a week ago, the highway had been flooded out and the ferry had been closed.  We feel like we have been putting luck to the test, so today we made the decision to leave the MRT route for a while and head inland along the Trans American trail out of Chester.  We are wanting to connect to the Natchez Trace Parkway and eventually catch up to the MRT in Natchez.  It will add a few extra miles to our trip - how hard could that be?

Flood Gate protecting Ste. Genevieve - Mississippi River Trail

Our lunch break was extended as we had a long wait for the Moduc ferry.  This wonderful little ferry takes you across the Mississippi from Missouri to Illinois.  The loading protocol is a little different than British Columbia Ferries.  You have to signal the boat, by pulling up the ramp and flashing your headlights....a unique challenge for cyclists!  We waved and tried to signal to no avail and resigned ourselves that we would need to just sit it out and wait for a car.  We sat on a log and watched the river go by, when a couple who were down by the river enjoying a picnic lunch noticed us, and drove their car over to signal the boat for us.  Greatly appreciated.....our rescuer had been born and raised 70 years in Ste. Genevieve.

Loading dock - Moduc Ferry - Mississippi River Trail

A couple of motorcyclists joined us on the ferry.  They were proud, Vietnam combat vets out for a weekend ride.  The motorcyclists always look a little intimidating with their big, powerful Harleys, leather jackets etc, beside us on our bikes, but it never fails that the bikers are the first to chat and to offer help.  As one fellow told us....it is the brotherhood of 2 wheels.  I guess we have been accepted as the "nerdy cousins."

Enjoying the Moduc Ferry - the "french connection" between  Missouri and Illinois

We finally arrived for the evening in Chester, home of Popeye ......not quite as far as we had planned to travel for the day, but another day rich in experiences and once again touched by the kindness of strangers.

Brutus and Rob - Chester, Illinois

Giggle of the day:

We felt back at home when we put our wheels on Illinois soil.  The farmers were busy in the fields, cars gave us lots of room and random strangers would ask if we needed water....that friendly Illinois vibe.  As we pedalled our way through the countryside, we experienced simultaneous allergy attacks.  Our eyes swelled up....almost to the point of being closed shut and we started sneezing..  Quite the experience - we looked like creatures from a horror movie by the time we ended our ride.

Which way?

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